Wheeler Peak, Great Basin National Park – October 2019

Saturday October 5: It is very chilly out this morning (27 degrees) here at Great Basin National Park, Nevada, when I walk to the restroom. I continue on up the road where I can get a photo of the creek without sun glare, a very pretty spot with boulders and little cascades.

Baker Creek

There is a great blue sky today, a perfect day for a drive to Wheeler Peak. However, Clifford is reluctant because of the climb being a bit much for old Suburban, which has just passed the 200,000 mile mark and is showing its age. So, instead, we decide to drive to the end of Baker Creek Road, only about a mile from the Baker Creek Campground where we are camped. As we are driving and I’m looking at the map, we realize that the climb to Wheeler Peak is not as great as he thought, and we could go partway to one of the scenic pull-outs.

Autumn Colors at Great Basin National Park

After turning around at the end of Baker Creek Road, we drive back toward the Visitors Center and take the Wheeler Peak Scenic Drive.

Views from Baker Creek Road
View from Baker Creek Road

Mather Overview is especially scenic with a view of the mountain peaks and a great valley below with autumn trees in full color.

Wheeler Peak from Mather Overlook

Instead of turning around here, we go on up the road to the Wheeler Peak Overview, and then on to the Wheeler Peak parking area at the end of the road.

View from Wheeler Peak Overlook

After finding a place to park, I get out to take photos. Clifford spies a kiosk describing the hiking trails and a decision is made to hike while we are here. This was not part of the original plan, so we don’t have snacks, but we do have warm clothes, hiking sticks, and water in the Suburban. We decide on the lake loop trail that passes by two mountain lakes. Since Clifford will want to hike faster and not stop for photos, we take the loop in opposite directions so we can meet somewhere enroute.

Lake loop trail

The elevation here is over 10,000 feet, so I take my time, rest when I need to, and sip at my water. I reach Teresa Lake and am enjoying taking photos here when Clifford joins me, having hiked twice the distance on his section of the loop. We hike back to the parking lot together.

Lake Teresa
Lake Teresa
Lake Teresa with Wheeler Peak in the background

On our way back to camp, we swing into the Grey Cliffs group site. Although the sun isn’t quite right, I get a couple of photos before we head back to our campground.

Grey Cliffs

We have a very late lunch and then I walkabout for photos of the autumn foliage near the campsite.

Autumn at Baker Creek Campground
Autumn at Baker Creek Campground

Later I do some editing and Clifford plays his dulcimer outside. Dinner is also late, as is going to bed, but it sure was a fun day!

Clifford with the dulcimer

Lehman Caves – October 2019

Friday October 4: It is super windy all night with the slide-out awning making a racket and Cougar rocking a bit. I have concerns for the awning and the solar panel, so don’t sleep well.

When I get up this morning, it is still windy, but the only damage is our chairs being blown over. In go for a walk in spite of the wind and get a few photos of the creek and the wild turkeys, the largest I’ve seen.

Baker Creek
Big wild turkeys

With the wind, it seems a good day for the Lehman Cave Tours. We call to find out if there are spots left on the afternoon tours. There are a few, but without having reservations, we’d have to go to the Visitors Center now to get a spot. We try to reserve online, but the cell signal is not strong enough to support a good internet connection, and it ends up being a huge hassle and a waste of time. In the end, we go to the Visitors Center, and due to many other people also wanting to do a tour, another one is added to the schedule. We still have to wait an hour and a half, so we watch the movie about Great Basin National Park and hike the Nature Trail. Then, while Clifford naps, I read Aarp magazines.

Finally it is time for the tour. Our ranger guide is pretty young woman who could be a stand-up comedian. She is quite delightful. The caves are amazing and our ranger was entertaining as well as informative.

We talk to her afterwards, as she is moving to Lolo, Montana, in the Bitterroot Valley where she will be working at Travelers Rest State Park. Since I have family in the area and we have spent a lot of time camping in the Bitterroot Valley, she is interested in learning a bit about the valley from us. It was nice to have the extra time with her.

Our exceptional Ranger Tour Guide and Clifford

Back at camp, we nap, then work on projects before dinner and early to bed for me. Luckily the wind died down during the day and I expect the coming night will be more peaceful.

Arrival at Great Basin National Park – October 2019

Thursday October 3: It is 26 degrees this morning at the wayside pull-out north of Wells, Nevada, off US highway 93, where we spent the night. Clifford is still sleeping, which gives me time to take a few photos and write in my journal. We are off to a bit of a late start this morning, but only planning on going to another wayside stop near Ely, Nevada.

Wayside pull-out – Highway 93

Heading south, still on 93, a small rest area is also the site of the Schellbourne Pony Express stop, back in the day. Several kiosks and displays recount the short but lively history of the Pony Express, most notably how very dangerous it was.

Pony Express – Schellbourne, Nevada

As we continue, we note the impressive mountain ranges: the Ruby Mountains, the Schell Creek Range, and the Snake Range, which includes Great Basin National Park with Mount Wheeler being over 13,000 feet.

Impressive mountain ranges in Nevada

After getting gas in Ely, instead of stopping at the wayside pull-out, Clifford decides to push on to the park in spite of the windy conditions and the lateness of our start this morning. So, on we go, arriving in late afternoon. We stop at the Visitor Center in nearby Baker to pick up a brochure and get information on the campgrounds.

Mount Wheeler in the distance

We try Lower Lehman Campground first, but every site is taken. The road is steep, very hard on our old Suburban, both up and down. Then we drive out to Baker Creek Campground on the Baker Creek Road. This late in the afternoon there are not many sites left and these are not very level, but we find a spot that will work nicely. After we get set up and leveled, I walkabout to explore while Clifford naps after a long day of driving. Dinner is late, but we are happy to be here!

We found a site that will work nicely (notice slope both behind and in front of Cougar)
Baker Creek
Autumn foliage at Baker Creek Campground

One More Day at Craters – October 2019

Tuesday October 1: It is 27 degrees this morning at Craters of the Moon National Monument where Clifford and I are camped. We had planned to leave this morning, but due to a forecast of possible snow flurries or freezing fog, our plans are changed. At first we consider leaving this afternoon, but with snow off and on this morning, we decide to stay.

Since we are here today, we take advantage of the opportunity for another outing. We drive to the spatter cones and take the short hike to look down into the gaping holes left by these eruptions.

Viewing platform at the spatter cones (did I mention it was chilly out?)

From there, we hike the trail that leads to the North Crater, but only go as far as Big Crater. One can only imagine the cataclysmic event that caused this caldera.

Trail to Big Crater and North Crater
Trail to Big Crater and North Crater
Looking down into Big Crater caldera
Expansive views of lava fields and cones

Then we stop at Inferno Cone, where I hike to the top while Clifford waits in the car. This turns out to be the best hike of all, as the top of the cone is flat with trees and shrubs and great long scenic views in all directions.

View from the top of Inferno Cone
Views from Inferno Cone
Old Grandmother of a tree alone on the top of Inferno Crater

Back at camp, we have chili for dinner and work on our projects: editing and journal writing for me, and Clifford is designing a program to model ionospheric propagation and ham radio communications. Snow flurries off and on remind us that we made a good decision to stay another day.

Chilly Day at Craters of the Moon – September 2019

Monday September 30: It is a chilly day at Craters of the Moon National Monument in southern Idaho where Clifford and I are camped. The storm we were staying ahead of caught up to us here yesterday with a skiff of snow and today the chilly temperatures remain: 26 degrees this morning, even though it is still September.

Views from the trail to the lava knoll

I go up to the lava knoll, but it must be too cold for my cell to work and no texts are sent. But I do take photos of the snow on the surrounding hills.

Snowy hills

We had planned to drive up to Stanley to explore the countryside, but after cleaning up mouse droppings (ugh!) and scouring pans and counters, we don’t have enough time for a drive. Instead, we walk over to the Visitors Center to watch a movie on Craters of the Moon. We see that this area does get a lot of snow in the winter.

Walk to the Visitors Center

We work on inside projects, and since Clifford was able to get his hotspot to work, we even get on the net for awhile to check email. I make another trip to the lava knoll just before sunset. Chilly, but the light is pretty.

Late afternoon hike to lava knoll
View from lava knoll

After dinner, I pack up the kitchen as much as possible, as we plan to leave in the morning. It has been fun here, but we want to get to Great Basin National Park before the weekend crowd arrives.

Skiff at Craters of the Moon – September 2019

Sunday September 29: Not only can I smell snow, I can see the snow this morning at Craters of the Moon National Monument in southern Idaho, where Clifford and I are camped. It is only a skiff, but foggy, which seems strange as there are no streams or rivers nearby. I dress warmly before walking to the restroom and then hiking up to the lava knoll where I can get cell service to send a text or two. Mostly I am excited to take a few photos in the misty ambiance.

Trail to the lava knoll
Trail to the lava knoll
Views from the trail to the lava knoll
Views from the trail to the lava knoll
Lone tree on the lava knoll
The wind picks up…
…and the fog deepens
Nearing the campsite

Today is mostly a day of inside activities, being too chilly to be outside with the heavy overcast and wind.

A good day for inside activities

A Day at Craters of the Moon – September 2019

Saturday September 28: When I open the door this morning, I smell snow. I don’t see snow, but I know it is not far away. I hike to the top of a knoll on the trail that goes past the amphitheater to the North Crater Flow Trail where we hiked yesterday. From that knoll, one can get enough cell signal to send a text, or even a photo now and then.

Heading to the knoll

Rain starts at midday, so activities are mostly indoors. For me: journaling, blog writing, and editing Regent’s Way, the next book in a great epic fantasy series by an author whom I know. Clifford gets his ham radio set up. His phone has better cell reception than mine, so his hotspot works intermittently and he is able to take care of some of his projects using the net.

Raining at Craters of the Moon

In the afternoon, the rain lets up and the sun comes out, so we drive the loop again and I take more photos.

Scenic Loop
Scenic Loop
Scenic Loop
Scenic Loop

Back at camp, before starting dinner, I hike up to the top of the knoll again as the light is really looking good to me. As I walk back to the campsite, the daylight ends with a striking sunset.

Hiking to the knoll
Sunset at Craters of the Moon

In the evening, Clifford starts the generator and we have power for lights and for charging our devices, which allows us to carry on with our projects. We are very fortunate, as we see neighbors in tents who turn in early to escape the dark and the chill of the night.

Craters of the Moon – September 2019

Friday September 27: It is 35 degrees this morning at the McFarland BLM Campground where Clifford and I spent the night on our way to Craters of the Moon National Monument in south central Idaho. Since we didn’t unhitch last night, it doesn’t take long for us to be packed up and ready to go this morning.

Dawn color at McFarland BLM Campground

The valley widens, the road is flat and straight, some of our easiest traveling ever.

Highway 28 southern Idaho landscape
Highway 28 southern Idaho landscape
Highway 28 southern Idaho landscape

We arrive at Craters of the Moon about noon and find that the sites are small, very close together, and most are designed for tents or small rigs. In spite of this, we find a nice pull-through spot with our own little ravine and lava piles that will provide a little privacy from nearby neighbors.

A pull-thru site with our own little ravine

After we get set up, we drive the scenic loop, stopping at a couple pull-outs to hike a bit.

North Crater Flow Trail
Rugged landscape
Devil’s Orchard Trail

We plan to explore a bit more another day, but for now, Clifford needs to nap after the drive, and I settle in to do some editing until the laptop battery runs out. After dinner I have time to write in the journal before starting the bedtime routine.

We are happy to have arrived and to have found a nice spot where we can hole up if the storm catches up to us.

Lost Trail Pass – September 2019

Thursday September 26: Today we are leaving our campsite at Bass Creek Recreation Area in the Bitterroot Valley of western Montana and heading south on highway 93, down the valley and over Lost Trail Pass. The time in Montana has been great and I am sorry to be leaving, but climate and weather are dictators, so we are heading south.

Last morning at Bass Creek Recreation Area in the Bitterroot Valley of western Montana

The Bitterroot Mountains are beautiful and rugged, with a dusting of snow. It is hard to get photos from a moving vehicle with a dirty windshield and tinted side windows. Oh, the frustrations of a photographer/documentarian – me.

Bitterroot Mountains
Dusting of snow

Once past Darby, the highway narrows, becoming more winding and there is no shoulder. It is pretty, but not a great place to be towing.

Rugged mountains as we approach Lost Trail Pass

Fortunately, as we draw closer to Lost Trail Pass, which will take us into southern Idaho, the highway is much improved with shoulders and passing lanes. It is very slow going up, over, and down the pass, steep and winding, but it is a good highway and not scary like the previous shoulderless section.

The mountains open up into rugged foothills and we soon see the Salmon River and autumn colors. We stop in the town of Salmon, Idaho, for gas, and then take highway 28 southeast, which on the map appears to be a straight stretch and the closest intersection with I-15, our intended route home. This is new territory for us and, indeed, the highway is straight and the landscape scenic.

Foothills
Salmon River
Landscape near Salmon, Idaho

About 30 miles south of Salmon, we turn in at the BLM McFarland Recreation Area. This campground is small without much privacy, but it is clean, with water available and vault toilets. We are grateful for the convenience of this campground and our peaceful night.

McFarland BLM Campground
Lemhi River

Clifford checks the weather, as we are trying to keep ahead of a big storm descending on the northwest US. It looks like our plan to get to I-15 will put us going through Salt Lake City during the thick of the storm, so a route adjustment is made. We will head, instead, to Craters of the Moon National Park to the southwest of us where we can camp until the storm passes. I’m doing a little secret happy-dance, as I have wanted to go to Craters of the Moon for several years.

Good-bye Montana – September 2019

Sunday September 22 to Wednesday September 25: These are our last days camping at Bass Creek Recreation Area in the Bitterroot Valley of western Montana. I do my usual morning walkabouts to the creek or around the campground, but the focus is on seeing my siblings and daughters one last time, as well as meeting a friend.

Bass Creek

One day Clifford and I make a trip to Missoula, the nearest “big” town, to see my daughter Merri and my granddaughter, Ali, and have lunch with them. Another day I make a trip to see my sister Lillian who lives outside nearby Stevensville, not far from where my dad grew up and where we used to visit our grandparents.

Crossing the Bitterroot River to visit my sister
Sisters

Another day, I drive over the mountain to visit my daughter Ang. I had intentions of spending the night, but due to a possible big storm with an early snowfall, our travel plans have changed again. I won’t be spending the night with her, but I am glad for the time we do have.

Crossing the Clarkfork River to visit Ang

We cancel the get together with our friend, and I also cancel a planned hike with my sister Nancy, but see her briefly when I drop off my car for safekeeping until next summer.

Good-bye to Bass Creek

We will be leaving in the morning, heading south through the Bitterroot Valley and into southern Idaho. Camping in Montana has been great this summer, seeing my kids, grandkids, siblings, and friends has been great, but now it is time to move on. Good-bye Montana, and I plan to see you next summer!