Wednesday, April 1 and Thursday April 2: After leaving Palouse Falls, we travel to Pasco, Washington, to spend the night with good friends. They provide a delicious dinner, a fun outing to a local brewery, and a comfortable bed for the night. After a tasty breakfast the next morning, we say our good-bye’s before heading south to Oregon and then west on I 84 along the Columbia River to Deschutes Oregon State Park, which is located on the bank of the Deschutes River at its confluence with the mighty Columbia. As we travel I notice how rugged and barren the landscape is on both sides of the river – not very hospitable at all, it seems to me.
Barren landscape, but great clouds
When we arrive at the park, I am pleased to see that it is a huge lovely lawn with a variety of handsome trees. There are not many campers here this time of year, especially as we are arriving mid-week. We choose a spot on the corner of a loop near the river.
Lovely big lawn and handsome trees
Initial set-up is easy, as the parking spot is paved and level. Once the Pony is set up, I realize there is more mildew than what I could see when we did the modified set-up at Palouse Falls. I tackle the inside with cleaning products from Melaleuca until the Pony smells clean, though I can still see some discoloration from the mildew. It takes quite awhile longer to get things in place because of this extra cleaning, but once that is done we have a good dinner and relax a bit before heading to bed.
Friday April 3: I didn’t sleep well, as the traffic noise from I 84 is non-stop and trains rumble by every couple of hours. On the plus side of things, this is an attractive park, there are flush toilets and showers, the Deschutes River is near at hand, and the trees are quite wonderful. A row of Lombardy poplars line the river bank, a huge golden willow stands tall and solid in the center of the park grounds, and there are other trees the likes of which I have never seen.
A row of Lombardy poplars line the bank of the river
A weeping willow tall and sturdy
Trees the likes of which I have never seen
We are quite comfortable here and, except for the traffic and trains, which are easy to ignore in the daytime, this is a lovely peaceful place to spend a few days.
Saturday April 4: After breakfast I make a picnic and then we head west to Hood River, which we find to be an attractive little town, and then south on state highway 35 toward Mount Hood. Even though the road begins to climb right away, we see many orchards in bloom for several miles. As we get nearer Mount Hood, the landscape becomes more forested, obscuring the view of the great mountain. We take the road up to Timberline Lodge, as Clifford was here as a teenager and is interested in seeing it again after the passage of so many years. For me, it is the first time I have been in the area and I am thrilled to see Mount Hood up close.
Mount Hood behind clouds
Mount Hood from Timberline Lodge
After we have our picnic sitting in the Blazer at Government Camp at the base of the mountain, being too chilly to sit outside, we head back down the road and arrive at our campsite in the late afternoon. I take a few more photos of the river before going inside to make dinner, followed by the evening activities of studying (Clifford) and looking at the day’s photos (me).
Deschutes River seen from the bridge
Deschutes River at evening light
Last light on the river
We have decided to stay another couple of days, as we would like to learn more about the history of the region before we travel on. This area is significant both in terms of the emigrants on the Oregon Trail in the mid 1800’s as well as the Lewis and Clark Expedition before them in the early 1800’s. We plan to catch up on emails and needed downloads for research tomorrow while we have cell service (our means of accessing the internet), and visit the Discovery Center outside of The Dalles, just a few miles to the west, on Monday. For tonight, I will listen to the river and try to ignore the traffic and the trains as I sleep.
Tuesday March 31: After a two-week setback because of Clifford’s health – was it the flu, we really don’t know – we are finally on our way today. We have breakfast at the Red Light Garage so as not to dirty any dishes, and finish packing the Blazer. In Kellogg we stop at the clinic for another blood test for Clifford and Coeur de Alene for gas and fill up the propane that will be our source of fuel for cooking and staying warm. At Spokane we head southwest: destination is Palouse Falls State Park in southeast Washington. Thanks to my research and phone calls, I have found an available and affordable place for us to stay on this part of our route. Not many campgrounds are open in March or early April and there are no national forests as fallback in this part of the country. The barren landscape is more attractive than it was when I was here in February, now having a sheen of green from grasses beginning to grow in this prairie-almost-desert region.
A slight sheen to an otherwise barren landscape
Once we exit I 90 to head south on highway 261 toward the state park, rolling hills of winter wheat are abundant, but soon the land becomes rugged and broken.
The Palouse River runs through a deep channel created eons ago as flood waters changed the topography of the land. Upon arrival at the Palouse Falls State Park, the spectacular falls can be seen from the parking lot as the river races and falls from one gorge into an even deeper gorge. A fence keeps visitors safe from tumbling into the pool far below that forms at the base of the falls before the river dashes on.
Palouse Falls by evening light
Power of the falls
This park is designed more for day-use, but there are a couple of spots where we can park the Pony (our little pop-up) at the edge of the grass – a large lawn-like area with trees and picnic tables scattered here and there. We do a modified set-up this evening, as we will only be staying one night and don’t want to take the time to do a full set-up. It is not so convenient for cooking and doing dishes, but an easy dinner of soup, cheese and crackers is fine for tonight. Mr. Heater keeps us warm this windy chilly evening.
Pony on the edge of the camping area
Wednesday April 1: I wake up before Clifford and decide to go for a stroll up on the cliffs above the waterfall – no fence here! The sun has just risen over the bluffs behind the falls and as I walk along the cliff top, I have a great angle with the light hitting the falls, but not blinding the camera. Mist is rising from the pool due to the coolness of the morning, adding a special ambiance to the scene. I don’t go far, as I would like to share this walk with Clifford.
Mist in the morning
After an easy breakfast of yogurt and fruit, we walk together along the cliff and head upstream so as to see the river before it reaches its jumping off spot.
The jumping off spot
There is a very impressive cascade not far upstream and an unusual sharp bend in the course of the river, which we learn was caused by the cataclysmic events in the far distant past.
Cascades upstream from the falls
We admire the river, the falls, and the rugged landscape before heading back to the Pony to get ready for the next leg of our journey.
Friday October 10: Looks like it will be a sunny day,
Morning campfire and tea
but I make a small campfire so I can sit out to read and write until it warms up some. I read “A New Earth” and write in my journal, enjoying my hot tea and the warmth of the flames. After breakfast I go searching for wood for the campfire, finding some cut wood behind one of the camps. The woods here are dark and mysterious, and dense with a variety of trees and shrubs. I almost expect a wood nymph to show herself. I think I could explore forever and not tire of it.
Woods dark and mysterious
Shrubs highlighted by a ray of sunlight
After several walkabouts to take photos, bringing back some wood each time, the wood supply begins to build up. This is a good thing, since the forecast is for rain one of these days. I have another campfire in the evening as it is much easier on my eyes to edit by natural light until it gets too dark to do so.
Evening campfire
Saturday October 11: It is mostly cloudy this morning,
Mostly cloudy
so I build a campfire, glad for the wood I gathered yesterday. The guy in the campsite across the road from us says we can have the wood that is at his spot, as he isn’t using it. I happily gather it up, stockpiling some under the pullouts of the Pony and the rest goes in a pile that I cover with a tarp at the first sign of rain. I keep the campfire going as long as I can, but eventually the rain becomes too heavy for me to read or write outdoors and I am forced to go in to continue with my editing.
I brought one of my old journals with me from 1979 to 1980, and begin reading it, curious if I should keep the old journals or begin getting rid of them. The entries are mostly quite brief, but bring back painful memories of how difficult my life situation was at that time. I am ever so grateful for all the good memories I have since Clifford and I have been together. And this camping trip to Bass Creek will be the next addition to the good memories bank.
Wednesday October 8: Yesterday we made it as far as Ang’s cabin on our way to Bass Creek south of Missoula, Montana. This morning she and I have coffee while we chat, and after sharing breakfast with her and Oden (my grandson), Clifford and I head on to Bass Creek.
Sharing a cup of coffee at the cabin
We arrive at the Charlie Waters campground in the early afternoon and are surprised to find it nearly full, which is unexpected for a mid-week day in October. We later find out that hunting season for something-or-other just started and there is a church group gathering. There are not many sites to choose from; Clifford wants sunshine, I want secluded and pretty. We drive through the entire campground at least three times before we compromise on a site: not secluded, but pretty with the woods behind the campsite, and a moderate chance of sunshine throughout the day.
Exploring the woods behind the campsite
We explore the woods at bit, looking for the creek that we can hear. It is not accessible right at our campsite, but can be reached further along. Then we get the Pony set up and this is home for the next couple of weeks.
Creek hidden in the woods
Thursday October 9: Wake up to sunshine and beautiful blue sky. I set up a small table and my chair in a big patch of sunlight, make a cup of French Press coffee (doesn’t need electricity, as well as making good tasting coffee), then sit in the sun’s warmth to write in my journal and begin reading “A New Earth” by Eckhart Tolle. The book opens by discussing the insanity of the human race because of ego identification with thought. So far, so good.
After breakfast we drive to Stevensville to get ice and a few groceries. I am pleased to find that the Super One store there has a good section of organic produce. On the way back, we explore the group campground not far away, a couple of side roads, the picnic area, and the road that goes beyond the trailhead and up the mountain that is across the meadow from us. In our exploration, we find a little niche off one of the side roads with a couple of primitive campsites. Good thing to keep in mind for next time.
Back at camp I edit “Against All Odds,” my project for this outing, while Clifford does research and plays with his ham radio gear – his projects. I play my cello for a bit
The cello
before walking across the meadow to take photos. The autumn colors are just beginning here.
The light in the afternoon hits a grove of young aspen on the hillside across the meadow causing them to glow as if lit from within. I can’t get to them now, but I am certainly drawn to their vivid color.
Aspen grove on the ridge
Another family of aspen
Katie calls: she is concerned that I am not getting enough good meat in my diet, based on the lab results I have received, so she is bringing her family and dinner out to our camp this afternoon. When Katie, Jeremy, and the kids arrive, we build a good campfire. Katie cooks a great dinner over the fire; we eat and visit until after dark. It is such a treat to have visitors, and especially fun to have visitors who cook!
Katie cooking dinner over the campfire
Jeremy and Finley
Justice holding little brother Jude
What an enjoyable evening! A really nice end to this lovely day at Bass Creek.
Sunday September 14: Sitting on a log in the sun rather than at a campfire this morning, I enjoy the beautiful blue sky, sunlight on tree branches, and the promise of a warm day. Read from the Course in Miracles “I see nothing as it is now” – but what am I seeing if I don’t see it as it is now? Unless it means I don’t see the Whole Truth of the river, the blue sky, the tree, and so on. That concept I can understand – who can know the Whole Truth of anything? But the way it is explained does not resonate with me.
We take showers (thank goodness for sunshine) and then head to New Denver. Today I have a red latte – very tasty – with my sandwich. I upload a blog to wordpress and send some emails while Clifford does what he needs to do. After taking care of our internet business, we head down to the park alongside the lake. It sure is pretty here. I am really going to miss Rosebery, Slocan Lake, and New Denver.
Back at camp, I make my last campfire and we begin packing up the things that we won’t need in the morning.
Monday September 15: I get up as the sunshine comes through the trees.
Last morning at Rosebery
No time for a campfire this morning. Finish packing, make tea for the road, and within a couple of hours, our Pony home becomes a little rectangle to be pulled down the road behind the Blazer. Before we pull out of our spot, I go down to Wilson Creek to say good-bye.
As we travel south on highway 6, we pull into a scenic overlook so I can say good-bye to Slocan Lake.
Good-bye, good-bye. But I’ll be back! Then on to Nelson.
We had heard about Nelson, a town we should visit while in British Columbia. Once we get there, we discover it is very difficult to find parking when traveling with an RV. Eventually we find a spot at the far end of town and walk uphill to the main downtown, which, like other tourist towns, is filled with galleries, gift shops, and cafes. If a person has money to spend, then Nelson would be lots of fun. But I have neither the money nor the need to buy stuff. After a little lunch, we walk the streets looking at all the attractive wares, but I am glad when we head back to the Blazer and hit the road.
We are going home by way of Coville National Forest in eastern Washington and our destination is a small reservoir called Sullivan Lake.
Several campgrounds are shown on the map, but the first two we come to are closed. Luckily, we spot a small 10-site campground not too much further along and since there is only an hour of daylight left, we quickly find a spot and begin setting up, keeping it as simple as possible since we won’t be here long. It may not be Rosebery, BC, but it is a pretty spot surrounded by big old trees and a little lake nearby.
Some health issues have reared up again today: heart palpitations and the sound of my heart beating in my eardrum and a headache (very unusually for me). Obviously something is not as it should be. Going to have to look into this once we get back home. But in the meantime, I am glad when the Pony is set up and we have a moment to walk down to the lake as dusk becomes night. A peaceful close to our journey today.
Forty-two degrees when I get up and the sun has just risen, casting sunlight through the trees in long skinny patches.
Today, after breakfast, we head to the Galena Trailhead near the path from Rosebery to Slocan Lake. The Galena Trail is the old N & S Railway bed, so it is a mostly level and easy hike. A portion of this trail heads east and then south along Slocan Lake to New Denver, and that is where we will walk today.
After parking at the trailhead parking space, we get our cameras and hiking sticks, and are soon ready to go. We first traverse a cedar forest, rather dark and spooky. As we emerge from the cedar forest, we cross Wilson Creek on an old railroad bridge near its confluence with Slocan Lake. When the view opens up, we can see the lake and what appears to be the remains of a once commercial pier.
Slocan Lake and the railroad were instrumental in the moving of silver, lead, and zinc ore from the mines to freight steamers in the 1890’s. Past the pier, the trail bends to the south and is a straight shot along the lake most of the way to New Denver. A great variety of trees on either side create a canopy over the trail.
In the distance, Clifford on the Galena Trail
Looking west, the lake can be seen in glimpses through the dense trees, while the other side of the trail slopes steeply upward toward the highway, also obscured by trees, where we can hear occasional traffic. Another mile and we find a pathway down to the rocky gravelly beach.
We sit on a sun-bleached log to share a trail bar and admire the view of the lake with the mountains of Valhalla Provincial Park across from us.
It is so pleasant here, we are reluctant to head back, but other activities beckon.
Along the way we stop to watch and try to take photos of a woodpecker that is busily throbbing away on a log not far off the trail. Amazing how fast a woodpecker’s head can move. On we go, stopping occasionally for a few more photos. I am especially enjoying the first colors of autumn.
When we are in the midst of the dark cedar forest, a sound and movement catches my attention. Clifford has already seen the bear cubs, but does not said anything until one of them takes off in the direction we are headed. My inclination is to head straight the other direction to the lake shore, walk along the beach, and take the much more traveled pathway from the lake up to the Galena Trailhead. However, Clifford keeps us steady on the trail and the young bear ahead of us soon gallops back to his sibling deep in the woods.
We are soon at the trail head and I am glad that we don’t have to walk all the way back to camp from here, as I am tired out from this easy two-and-a-half mile hike. It is a concern to me that my endurance has declined so much this past year. Back at camp I take a shower, clean out the coolers, then enjoy a cup of coffee as I write in my journal, moving my chair from one patch of sun to the next as each disappears into tree shadows. Before the last sun-patch goes away, I get out the flute and play for a bit. A campfire extends my time outside and I peel potatoes for dinner by firelight, not wanting to waste any of the heat being generated.
We enjoy mashed potatoes, the last of the broccoli, and kipper snacks (we are getting low on food) for dinner as we listen to old-time pop music on the Canadian radio. What a great day!
Thursday September 11: Chilly this morning, 34 degrees, but a gorgeous blue sky. I will need to buy more wood soon, but luckily, the neighbors left some, so I have a great campfire – warmed by the flames on one side and warmed by the sunshine on the other. Read a bit more of the “Course” – the text on fear being a lack of love. I would say my fear of grizzly bears has little to do with whether or not I love them. Take that guy in Alaska – or was in Canada – who loved the grizzlies right up to the moment they ate him. Hmmm….. Perhaps a glossary would be helpful, as my understanding of some words is obviously not the same as the writer of this grand document.
Since we are headed to New Denver again today, I need to wash my hair and decide to do so right by the campfire, as it is too chilly away from it. Clean hair deserves a clean body, so heat more water and have a quick shower (outdoors behind shower curtains). Clean head to toe and off we go to New Denver.
The internet at the sandwich shop gives us a chance to get caught up on business while we enjoy our Rueben sandwiches.
Kane Creek
We decide to find a different falls that we see marked on the map: Kane Creek Falls. Kane Creek is not far from New Denver on Highway 31A. The turnoff is not well-marked, but we find it, only to discover after a mile in that it has become an ATV-only road and we will not be driving in to see Kane Creek Falls.
Back at camp we manage to scrounge more wood from vacant campsites for a campfire. Later, when the forest service guy comes around with fresh tubs of wood, I buy one so I will have enough to last until we leave.
Friday September 12: A chilly morning with an overcast sky and a warm bed causes us to sleep in. But it doesn’t really matter, because we don’t have to go anywhere and do anything on any schedule. I start with the campfire and my hot cup of tea. I reread the “Course” on fear trying to get a better understanding of it, but it is still not resonating with me. Play the flute an hour – if I keep it up, I should start sounding pretty good for a beginner. Hike up Wilson Creek a ways, but the trail gets quite rugged and I don’t have my hiking sticks, so head back. After my experience trying to hike to Wilson Falls, I am being a bit more cautious about pushing myself, especially when I am off by myself. I can get more of the photos I am looking for closer to camp, anyway. Autumn colors are starting to show themselves, even in the cedars right around our campsite.
Clifford continues his projects, which on this trip involve his ham radio set-up, as well as studying genetics in connection with his research for CI.
As the afternoon chill comes around, I head inside to tackle some paperwork that I brought with me. After dinner and cleanup, I read a really good article in the Outdoor Photographer magazine on focus. I am always happy to learn something new to improve my skills. Before I know it, the yawns overtake me and I head to bed, while Clifford stays up to continue working on his projects. Another great day in British Columbia!
Tuesday September 9: Happy Birthday thoughts to my daughter, Ang.
I start the day by taking the scenic route along Wilson Creek to the rest room,
followed by a campground walkabout noting which other sites might be good if we can’t get this one again. Back at camp, I make a campfire and read “Course in Miracles” comparing lesson 7 (I see only the past in this pencil, hand,…) to my current experience of the campfire – its warmth, color, motion, and crackling sound being very much present moment.
Most days I play my flute while looking down on Wilson Creek, but today I play my flute for the forest. Who knows what forest spirits are lurking about and pleased that I honor them with my music. Spend more time along Wilson Creek taking photos, loving its pristine clarity and gorgeous color. Later, by an afternoon campfire, I work on a blog and edit some photos until the battery on the laptop is almost dead. Then another good dinner to finish off the day as we listen to an interesting program on Canadian radio.
A present-moment kind of day.
Wednesday September 10:
I build a campfire, make a cup of coffee, and sit out to read the next section and lesson of “Course in Miracles,” but let the fire die out soon, as we are headed out this morning to New Denver. The sandwich shop is closed today, unfortunately for our plans – no internet for us.
We do a bit of exploring and by time we get back to camp, the afternoon has slid past. I build another campfire and sit out to continue writing and editing, having charged the laptop as we drove about.
A bit of a toothache tonight, but can’t find the mouth tonic. You’d think in such a small home (Pony set up is 7’x 16’) that nothing could get lost. But the opposite is true, actually. With such a small living space, things get tucked away and then are hard to find again. Use coconut oil instead and then off to bed. Tomorrow I can reorganize our space.
First stop on Highway 6 north is Summit Lake Provincial Park located along the shore of a lovely mountain lake. It is very pretty there, especially those sites that are right on the water’s edge. Maybe this would be a possibility for us next summer. But for right now, we are happy to stay at Rosebery.
Our next stop is a forest service camp a ways off the highway: Box Lake aptly named, as one does feel a bit boxed in there. The road is narrow, the camp is dark, the sites are not very level, and the lake is small. Good for fisherfolk, but not so good for Pony campers like us.
On to Nakusp, which is located along Upper Arrow Lake. It is one of the larger towns in this part of British Columbia, not so much catering to tourists as New Denver, but serving the larger population of the area. We get ice and groceries at a good-size market there.
A lovely Japanese garden runs along the length of the lakeside portion of Nakusp, a testimony to the Japanese people who lived in this region since the early 1900’s, but who were treated poorly during the Second World War. We spend some time there walking through the gardens and along the shore.
On the way back to Rosebery, we decide to take a little detour and head up the forest road on the other side of Wilson Creek to see if we can find Wilson Falls. Arriving at the trail head, we take hiking sticks and light rain gear, as it looks like rain could move in before we return.
Clifford reading the GPS on the trail
The beginning of the trail is level through a lovely dense deciduous forest. Piece of cake. But then, the landscape changes and we begin a steep upward ascent over roots and rocks on the trail through a spruce forest. Not nearly so pretty and much more of a hike.
I am finding myself getting quite winded. Not a good sign, but then downhill and I catch my breath and heart-rate is back to normal until the next steep upward climb. I have been an active hiker most of my life, and especially in my 60’s, but again I am winded and my heart-rate is elevated. The wind comes up and my hair is blowing in my face, as I had not planned to hike today and had not tied it up or back. This is not good. So, even though we can hear the falls and catch glimpses of it through the dense trees, we decide not to take the next downhill section of trail. It only means that much more uphill on the way back. If I could have taken my time, I think I would have been okay, but we are pushing a bit because of the time of day and the gathering clouds. This trail will not be a good one to be on if it gets wet and slippery. I hate to miss seeing and taking photos of the falls, but wisdom prevails and we head back with Clifford carrying my small backpack and one of my cameras. I have to stop often to rest until we reach level ground again. I am very grateful to reach the car in the now steady rain. I don’t feel so great as we drive back to Rosebery, but as the evening carries on, I begin to recover from our adventure and build a campfire to extend my outdoor time for today.
We end the day with a good dinner as we listen to the Canadian radio station which is airing a program about the Beatles. In spite of falling short of Wilson Falls, it has been a good and interesting day here in British Columbia.
Sunday September 7: Today we go to New Denver, the small town about six miles south of Rosebery. We want to see if we can get cell phone service or internet while we are camped at Rosebery. New Denver is a cool little town right on the shore of Slocan Lake – very pretty and well-kept with lots of shops to cater to tourists, as well as a couple of gas stations and a decent grocery store. We walk through a park along the lake shore and then find a sandwich shop with free Wifi. Clifford takes care of CI business while we eat our excellent Rueben sandwiches as we sit out on the deck.We decide to explore a bit, driving a few miles on down the lake to Silverton. This town was also important in the history of the valley, but does not, at this point, have as much to offer as New Denver. We take a look at the municipal park. It seems that all the small towns we have come across have a municipal park, handy camping for travelers on their way through the area.
Back at camp, I continue editing the blogs and photos of our outing to Trout Creek in August until the battery on my laptop goes dead. We have a solar panel, but it can’t keep up with the demands of our laptops and all the gear that Clifford has plugged in – ham radio, and other stuff.
Clifford showing how high in the tree he has his ham radio antenna. It is way way way up there.
Comments on health and self-care: My health seems to have deteriorated in the last month. Most disconcerting are the heart palpitations and constriction, and shortness of breath, even without exertion, but there are other things going on also. When we first began these longer outings, contemplating even longer times spent traveling and camping, I had the thought “who will I be taking care of, who will I be nurturing?” The immediate return thought was “yourself.” My whole life has been wrapped up in taking care of family, animals, home, students, gardens, houseplants, and so on. But now I need to take the time to nurture myself. I’m sure there will be many levels as to what that really means. This longer trip to Canada will give me a chance to explore what that experience is, as I did briefly at Trout Creek when I just sat looking down at the river – not reading, not writing, not taking photos – just being there. And what about leaving my campfire last night: I stopped just being to fit a schedule. It will take gentle awareness to move beyond automatic “doing” to mindful “doing” to allowing myself to just be without any doing.
