Canada – the Rosebery Trip – September 2014 – Part 7

Saturday September 13:

Forty-two degrees when I get up and the sun has just risen, casting sunlight through the trees in long skinny patches.

Today, after breakfast, we head to the Galena Trailhead near the path from Rosebery to Slocan Lake. The Galena Trail is the old N & S Railway bed, so it is a mostly level and easy hike. A portion of this trail heads east and then south along Slocan Lake to New Denver, and that is where we will walk today.

After parking at the trailhead parking space, we get our cameras and hiking sticks, and are soon ready to go. We first traverse a cedar forest, rather dark and spooky.  As we emerge from the cedar forest, we cross Wilson Creek on an old railroad bridge near its confluence with Slocan Lake.BC-2_G12 011 When the view opens up, we can see the lake and what appears to be the remains of a once commercial pier.

BC-2_G12 013 Slocan Lake and the railroad were instrumental in the moving of silver, lead, and zinc ore from the mines to freight steamers in the 1890’s. Past the pier, the trail bends to the south and is a straight shot along the lake most of the way to New Denver. A great variety of trees on either side create a canopy over the trail.

In the distance, Clifford on the Galena Trail
In the distance, Clifford on the Galena Trail

Looking west, the lake can be seen in glimpses through the dense trees, while the other side of the trail slopes steeply upward toward the highway, also obscured by trees, where we can hear occasional traffic. Another mile and we find a pathway down to the rocky gravelly beach.

BC-2_G12 033We sit on a sun-bleached log to share a trail bar and admire the view of the lake with the mountains of Valhalla Provincial Park across from us.

BC-2_G12 039 It is so pleasant here, we are reluctant to head back, but other activities beckon.

Along the way we stop to watch and try to take photos of a woodpecker that is busily throbbing away on a log not far off the trail. Amazing how fast a woodpecker’s head can move. On we go, stopping occasionally for a few more photos. I am especially enjoying the first colors of autumn.

BC-2_G12 040When we are in the midst of the dark cedar forest, a sound and movement catches my attention. Clifford has already seen the bear cubs, but does not said anything until one of them takes off in the direction we are headed. My inclination is to head straight the other direction to the lake shore, walk along the beach, and take the much more traveled pathway from the lake up to the Galena Trailhead. However, Clifford keeps us steady on the trail and the young bear ahead of us soon gallops back to his sibling deep in the woods.

We are soon at the trail head and I am glad that we don’t have to walk all the way back to camp from here, as I am tired out from this easy two-and-a-half mile hike. It is a concern to me that my endurance has declined so much this past year. Back at camp I take a shower, clean out the coolers, then enjoy a cup of coffee as I write in my journal, moving my chair from one patch of sun to the next as each disappears into tree shadows. Before the last sun-patch goes away, I get out the flute and play for a bit. A campfire extends my time outside and I peel potatoes for dinner by firelight, not wanting to waste any of the heat being generated.

We enjoy mashed potatoes, the last of the broccoli, and kipper snacks (we are getting low on food) for dinner as we listen to old-time pop music on the Canadian radio. What a great day!

Canada – the Rosebery Trip – September 2014 – Part 6

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Slocan Lake at New Denver

Thursday September 11: Chilly this morning, 34 degrees, but a gorgeous blue sky. I will need to buy more wood soon, but luckily, the neighbors left some, so I have a great campfire – warmed by the flames on one side and warmed by the sunshine on the other. Read a bit more of the “Course” – the text on fear being a lack of love. I would say my fear of grizzly bears has little to do with whether or not I love them. Take that guy in Alaska – or was in Canada – who loved the grizzlies right up to the moment they ate him. Hmmm….. Perhaps a glossary would be helpful, as my understanding of some words is obviously not the same as the writer of this grand document.

Since we are headed to New Denver again today, I need to wash my hair and decide to do so right by the campfire, as it is too chilly away from it. Clean hair deserves a clean body, so heat more water and have a quick shower (outdoors behind shower curtains). Clean head to toe and off we go to New Denver.

InternetThe internet at the sandwich shop gives us a chance to get caught up on business while we enjoy our Rueben sandwiches.

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Kane Creek

We decide to find a different falls that we see marked on the map: Kane Creek Falls. Kane Creek is not far from New Denver on Highway 31A. The turnoff is not well-marked, but we find it, only to discover after a mile in that it has become an ATV-only road and we will not be driving in to see Kane Creek Falls.

Back at camp we manage to scrounge more wood from vacant campsites for a campfire. Later, when the forest service guy comes around with fresh tubs of wood, I buy one so I will have enough to last until we leave.

Friday September 12: A chilly morning with an overcast sky and a warm bed causes us to sleep in. But it doesn’t really matter, because we don’t have to go anywhere and do anything on any schedule. I start with the campfire and my hot cup of tea. I reread the “Course” on fear trying to get a better understanding of it, but it is still not resonating with me. Play the flute an hour – if I keep it up, I should start sounding pretty good for a beginner. Hike up Wilson Creek a ways, but the trail gets quite rugged and I don’t have my hiking sticks, so head back. After my experience trying to hike to Wilson Falls, I am being a bit more cautious about pushing myself, especially when I am off by myself. I can get more of the photos I am looking for closer to camp, anyway.  Autumn colors are starting to show themselves, even in the cedars right around our campsite.

BC-2_G1x 028Clifford continues his projects, which on this trip involve his ham radio set-up, as well as studying genetics in connection with his research for CI.

BC-1_G12 190 As the afternoon chill comes around, I head inside to tackle some paperwork that I brought with me. After dinner and cleanup, I read a really good article in the Outdoor Photographer magazine on focus. I am always happy to learn something new to improve my skills. Before I know it, the yawns overtake me and I head to bed, while Clifford stays up to continue working on his projects.  Another great day in British Columbia!

Canada – the Rosebery Trip – September 2014 – Part 5

Tuesday September 9: Happy Birthday thoughts to my daughter, Ang.

I start the day by taking the scenic route along Wilson Creek to the rest room,

Wilson Creek 2

followed by a campground walkabout noting which other sites might be good if we can’t get this one again. Back at camp, I make a campfire and read “Course in Miracles” comparing lesson 7 (I see only the past in this pencil, hand,…) to my current experience of the campfire – its warmth, color, motion, and crackling sound being very much present moment.

BC-2_G12 002Most days I play my flute while looking down on Wilson Creek, but today I play my flute for the forest. Who knows what forest spirits are lurking about and pleased that I honor them with my music. BC-1_G12 185Spend more time along Wilson Creek taking photos, loving its pristine clarity and gorgeous color. BC-2_G1x 009Later, by an afternoon campfire, I work on a blog and edit some photos until the battery on the laptop is almost dead. Then another good dinner to finish off the day as we listen to an interesting program on Canadian radio.

A present-moment kind of day.

Wednesday September 10:

I build a campfire, make a cup of coffee, and sit out to read the next section and lesson of “Course in Miracles,” but let the fire die out soon, as we are headed out this morning to New Denver. The sandwich shop is closed today, unfortunately for our plans – no internet for us.

BC-3_G1x 023We do a bit of exploring and by time we get back to camp, the afternoon has slid past. I build another campfire and sit out to continue writing and editing, having charged the laptop as we drove about.

A bit of a toothache tonight, but can’t find the mouth tonic. You’d think in such a small home (Pony set up is 7’x 16’) that nothing could get lost. But the opposite is true, actually. With such a small living space, things get tucked away and then are hard to find again. Use coconut oil instead and then off to bed. Tomorrow I can reorganize our space.

Canada – the Rosebery Trip – September 2014 – Part 4

Monday September 8: We are exploring today.

Summit Lake
Summit Lake

First stop on Highway 6 north is Summit Lake Provincial Park located along the shore of a lovely mountain lake. It is very pretty there, especially those sites that are right on the water’s edge. Maybe this would be a possibility for us next summer. But for right now, we are happy to stay at Rosebery.

Our next stop is a forest service camp a ways off the highway: Box Lake aptly named, as one does feel a bit boxed in there. The road is narrow, the camp is dark, the sites are not very level, and the lake is small. Good for fisherfolk, but not so good for Pony campers like us.

On to Nakusp, which is located along Upper Arrow Lake. It is one of the larger towns in this part of British Columbia, not so much catering to tourists as New Denver, but serving the larger population of the area. We get ice and groceries at a good-size market there.

BC-1_G1x 037 A lovely Japanese garden runs along the length of the lakeside portion of Nakusp, a testimony to the Japanese people who lived in this region since the early 1900’s, but who were treated poorly during the Second World War. We spend some time there walking through the gardens and along the shore.BC-1_G1x 042

BC-1_G1x 039On the way back to Rosebery, we decide to take a little detour and head up the forest road on the other side of Wilson Creek to see if we can find Wilson Falls.  Arriving at the trail head, we take hiking sticks and light rain gear, as it looks like rain could move in before we return.

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Clifford reading the GPS on the trail

The beginning of the trail is level through a lovely dense deciduous forest. Piece of cake. But then, the landscape changes and we begin a steep upward ascent over roots and rocks on the trail through a spruce forest. Not nearly so pretty and much more of a hike.

BC-1_G12 116 I am finding myself getting quite winded. Not a good sign, but then downhill and I catch my breath and heart-rate is back to normal until the next steep upward climb. I have been an active hiker most of my life, and especially in my 60’s, but again I am winded and my heart-rate is elevated. The wind comes up and my hair is blowing in my face, as I had not planned to hike today and had not tied it up or back. This is not good. So, even though we can hear the falls and catch glimpses of it through the dense trees, we decide not to take the next downhill section of trail. It only means that much more uphill on the way back. If I could have taken my time, I think I would have been okay, but we are pushing a bit because of the time of day and the gathering clouds. This trail will not be a good one to be on if it gets wet and slippery. I hate to miss seeing and taking photos of the falls, but wisdom prevails and we head back with Clifford carrying my small backpack and one of my cameras. I have to stop often to rest until we reach level ground again. I am very grateful to reach the car in the now steady rain. I don’t feel so great as we drive back to Rosebery, but as the evening carries on, I begin to recover from our adventure and build a campfire to extend my outdoor time for today.

BC-1_G12 123We end the day with a good dinner as we listen to the Canadian radio station which is airing a program about the Beatles. In spite of falling short of Wilson Falls, it has been a good and interesting day here in British Columbia.

Canada – the Rosebery Trip – September 2014 – Part 3

Canada – Part 3

Sunday September 7: Today we go to New Denver, the small town about six miles south of Rosebery. We want to see if we can get cell phone service or internet while we are camped at Rosebery. New Denver is a cool little town right on the shore of Slocan Lake – very pretty and well-kept with lots of shops to cater to tourists, as well as a couple of gas stations and a decent grocery store. BC-3_G1x 014BC-3_G1x 015BC-3_G1x 016We walk through a park along the lake shore and then find a sandwich shop with free Wifi. Clifford takes care of CI business while we eat our excellent Rueben sandwiches as we sit out on the deck.BC-2_G12 003We decide to explore a bit, driving a few miles on down the lake to Silverton. This town was also important in the history of the valley, but does not, at this point, have as much to offer as New Denver. We take a look at the municipal park. It seems that all the small towns we have come across have a municipal park, handy camping for travelers on their way through the area.

Back at camp, I continue editing the blogs and photos of our outing to Trout Creek in August until the battery on my laptop goes dead. We have a solar panel, but it can’t keep up with the demands of our laptops and all the gear that Clifford has plugged in – ham radio, and other stuff.

Clifford showing how high in the tree he has his ham radio antenna.   It is way way way up there.
Clifford showing how high in the tree he has his ham radio antenna. It is way way way up there.

Comments on health and self-care: My health seems to have deteriorated in the last month. Most disconcerting are the heart palpitations and constriction, and shortness of breath, even without exertion, but there are other things going on also. When we first began these longer outings, contemplating even longer times spent traveling and camping, I had the thought “who will I be taking care of, who will I be nurturing?” The immediate return thought was “yourself.” My whole life has been wrapped up in taking care of family, animals, home, students, gardens, houseplants, and so on. But now I need to take the time to nurture myself. I’m sure there will be many levels as to what that really means. This longer trip to Canada will give me a chance to explore what that experience is, as I did briefly at Trout Creek when I just sat looking down at the river – not reading, not writing, not taking photos – just being there. And what about leaving my campfire last night: I stopped just being to fit a schedule. It will take gentle awareness to move beyond automatic “doing” to mindful “doing” to allowing myself to just be without any doing.

Being

Canada – the Rosebery Trip – September 2014 – Part 2

Friday September 5: This is rainforest country with great tall cedars,

Spanish Moss

and moss hanging from tree branches and carpeting the ground,BC-3_G1x 034

the rocks, logs and tree trunks.BC-3_G12 009

Nearby Wilson Creek tumbles down from the mountains to the east, qualifying as a river in my book.
BC-1_G12 136Exploring its banks, we see bright red-orange fish, the likes of which we have never seen before, hanging around in the pools created by rocks along the water’s edge. We later learn that they are kokanee, a type of small freshwater salmon.

BC-2_G1x 019We are seeing them as they make their way upstream to breed, just as their bigger cousins from the oceans do.

In the afternoon we go for a short drive to the Galena Trailhead across the highway from Rosebery Provincial Park and walk down to the shores of Slocan Lake. On the map, Slocan Lake does not look huge, but standing beside it with the towering mountains of Valhalla Provincial State Park across from us, we see that it is quite a good-size lake.

Slocan from
Slocan Lake from Rosebery Harbor

Reading a brochure picked up from the trailhead, we learn about the history of the area and the important role played by steamers navigating the lake, bringing passengers and freight into the Rosebery harbor in the 1890’s, as well as railroads taking out silver ore, the commodity for which the area was famous. A submerged portion of the great harbor can still be seen.

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Saturday September 6: As soon as I get up, I walk from the campsite to the shore of Slocan Lake and along the lake to the confluence of Wilson Creek flowing into Slocan Lake.

ConfluenceI feel like I need to be doing more walking and the light is very nice this time of the day. I take photos and sit on a log in the sunshine enjoying being in the presence of the lake and the mountain before heading back to camp and breakfast.

Camp at Rosebery
Campsite at Rosebery – Clifford aka Dagwood

I get my chair and a small table set up on the gentle rise behind the Pony (our little pop-up) where I can look down on Wilson Creek as I write in my journal, read, and play the flute. I have recently started playing the flute, as the cello (I am a cellist) is big, awkward, and fragile when it comes to camping. Guess we’ll see how it goes with the flute. Much easier to pack around, but not sure if my personality resonates with it.

BC-1_G12 185 Clifford is working on a science lab in connection with his research for CI.

BC-1_G12 190Notice the beautiful picnic table – one of the most charming things about the campsites here.

In the afternoon as the campsite becomes shadier and cooler, I build a campfire. We buy the wood for fires, as wood-gathering is not allowed, even though there is a lot of deadfall in the area.

Evening Campfire

Sitting by the campfire, I review blogs and photos of our trip to Trout Creek (near Superior, Montana) in August and pick photos to go with the blog. Once it becomes too dark to read by the firelight, I head inside to consider dinner. There is a part of me that wants to stay outside by the campfire until every little ember has died away, but the more practical side of me is still in control. So many years of “shoulds” and “musts” – it might take awhile to move beyond “doing” to just “being.”

British Columbia – Rosebery in September – Part 1

Canada is a big country. If one is going to travel there, where does one start?

Slocan Lake, British Columbia, Canada
Slocan Lake, British Columbia, Canada

Lots of questions remain, but what makes it do-able without a lot of preparation is that southern British Columbia is right next door to northern Idaho were we live, and we have never-before-used passports in hand. Clifford looks into free camping and lots of dots show up on the map, but what does not show up are the roads that lead to the dots. Hmmmm……. Luckily, my friend Ken suggests that a trip along the Kootenay lakes would be close and very scenic. So, in looking at the map, and seeing no dots for free camping in the area of the Kootenay lakes, I look into the provincial parks in the area, jotting down a few notes as to their location, size, and price. We have been talking about making a camping trip to Canada for over a year, while we still lived in New Mexico. Couldn’t pull it off from there, but Idaho opens the door, so to speak, for us.

Wednesday September 3: I have packed enough clothes for a two-week trip, most of the food that we will need, personal items, and the passports. The daypacks, satchels, two coolers, several cameras, briefcases and purse are in a pile by the door. Everything is carefully stowed in the back of the Blazer in the pouring raining. We take extra coats and raingear – who knows, it could rain on our entire trip – but we don’t care. We are going to Canada, rain or shine.
Clifford gets the Pony (our little pop-up tent trailer) hooked up to the Blazer and by early afternoon, we pull out of Wallace, stopping to run errands in Coeur d Alene on the way. By late afternoon, we are at the turn-off to the campground we see on the map south of Sandpoint. It is not a detailed map, but it looks like we should drive several miles east and then south to the shore of Pend Oreille Lake. We come to a junction a few miles in, but stick to the main road. After some time, it becomes apparent that this is not the road that we want to be on. So back to the junction and take other fork, but as we near the lake, it seems that we are on private land with homes along the shore. Hmmm….. With no sign of a campground, we drive all the way back out to the highway and find the nearest gas station where we ask if there really is a campground somewhere out there, which we now have to find in the dark. Someone says “yes,” so we retrace our route, taking the second fork and back down to the lake, and less than a quarter of a mile from where we turned around before, we see the sign to the campground. We head up the steep road and sure enough, there it is. We usually like to check out the sites before picking one, but not tonight. We back into the first available spot that is level enough. We aren’t going to be here long enough to be fussy about it.  In order to keep setting up and take-down to a minimum, we don’t unhook the Pony from the Blazer and only pull one bed out part way. This gives us a very limited space to sit as we cook quesadillas with Clifford’s little back-up camp stove and mess kit that he keeps in the topper. Not the most comfortable, but it will save us time in the morning.

Thursday September 4: I wake up not feeling rested, my eyes puffy and bleary. We take the mess kit and camp stove out to the picnic table to heat water to wash up and make tea. The spot we picked in the dark is nice enough and maybe we’ll come again sometime and stay longer.Garfield Camp We share a banana and get things repacked and soon we are on our way.

In Sandpoint, we go to a bank and exchange American currency for Canadian currency, a sign of respect for the merchants we will encounter in Canada. At the border, we present our passports and the smiling Canadian border guard asks where we are going and if we have any fruits or vegetables. All that comes to mind are the two slightly wrinkled apples that I put in the cooler, knowing they wouldn’t last until we got home. We are asked to pull forward and dispose of these apples. That takes us by surprise and I think it is a shame to waste good food, even wrinkled apples. Hmmm…… there is more to this story, but not for the public record.

Blazer & Pony on Ferry
Blazer and Pony taking a ride on the ferry.

Leaving Creston, we take the wrong road, but soon get ourselves turned around and find ourselves on a wonderfully scenic drive north along the Kootenay Lakes to the ferry crossing at the north end of South Kootenay Lake. The ferry crossing is lovely and fun.

Ferry Crossing - Kootenay Lakes, British columbia
Ferry Crossing – Kootenay Lakes, British Columbia

After leaving the ferry, we investigate a nearby provincial park, but deciding it is too civilized and too expensive for our tastes, we retrace our tire tracks (well, sort of) and continue north to Kaslo, a charming little town at a junction that takes us west to New Denver and then north to Rosebery Provincial Park, one of the parks that I had looked into. By now, it is getting to be late afternoon and we are ready to find “home.” We are delighted that this park has lots of available spots and is not as expensive as the others. An absolutely lovely campsite on the end of a loop is available and we are pleased to claim it. We have privacy, a creek nearby, wonderful tall trees including great old cedars,  moss covered ground – like

Wilson Creek
Wilson Creek

Old cedars at Rosebery
Old cedars at Rosebery

a fairyland – and a steep mountain to guard our backside. Setting up goes smoothly, but I am beat; by time we have a little dinner, I am so tired I can hardly stand up to do the dishes. Bed is ever-so-welcome at our home at Rosebery, British Columbia, Canada.